Things you should know ...

I know how hard it is to find a good breeder and a healthy pup these days and I have written down several things below you should know before seeking a breeder and a pup. I know myself when I was trying to find a healthy bernese puppy and why I eventually flew to Belgium to finally find the right dogs for me

The internet is all geared to buy only from a Show breeder or breeders that belong to the "Breed Clubs"
They state on their Club websites that club breeders are the only breeders who care about the breeds, their dogs and do everything right to insure the very Best, this is so far from the Truth!

Don't let these Club Logo's fool you, most hide behind the logo and don't follow the standards or even breed healthy puppies. These Clubs have double standards and are run very poorly

Line breeding or inbreeding is also big in the show world (breeding father back to daughter etc) and yes even my european dogs are linebred but are never linebred again once they arrive here. I have had several bernese over the years with "extra" tight pedigrees and between poor temperaments and health issues they were never bred and retired here as pets


If your looking for a breeder who has 2 maybe 3 dogs that keeps pups to breed back to their father, I am not the breeder for you. If your looking for a breeder who's only stud male is a vial of sperm, I am not the breeder for you, hard to tell temperament from a vial

I was lucky enough with my last imported bernese to get a few out cross litters (unrelated dogs) and I couldn't be happier, wonderful temperaments, no health issues, just solid happy Bernese

I have been a breeder for over 30 years. Years ago I was a show breeder and was apart of the clubs. At the time I felt I needed to belong to be accepted into the breeder world. Well I was so wrong, the things that happen at the shows and what breeders do to each other is beyond horrible and the poor dogs that suffer because of this.
No Thanks!

I am slammed by other breeders because I am not part of their groups but I am ok with that for I am doing my own thing and couldn't be happier

I have championships on a few of my older dogs and it doesn't change the dog at all, doesn't make the dog produce better pups, it's a piece of paper

I require a visit and my questionnaire filled out before you are placed on a litter, I want to insure the pups are going to the very best homes


It is So important to do your homework before you send a deposit or buy a puppy. Go meet the breeder and their dogs, see the parents, ask questions


With this economy I get a lot of people thinking the bernese cost around 1000.00 - 1500.00 which is Kijiji price, these breeders on Kijiji are the ones who buy bernese from places like puppy find for 200.00 to 500.00 and have them shipped out, breed them with no idea what health problems are behind these dogs, they are just breeding to sell puppies. I get calls all the time from people who have bought these pups and are calling for advise because their pups are sick or have passed away at a early age. It is so sad to hear and see this, paying Kijiji prices will end up triple that in vet bills and heart ache

The bernese are the boom breed right now everyone wants one which keeps Kijiji busy, most of these ads of the bernese pups don't even look purebred, pups are living outside with no vaccines, no health checks, no testing, no papers. one ad had a dirty mattress laying on the ground for the pups and a dirty dog dish. I just shake my head. Bernese have a small gene pool and health issues and buying these pups are just going to make these irresponsible breeders breed more

The Bernese are not a "unhealthy breed" but these breeders on Kijiji are making people think that


Or the designer Breeders that think it is cool to breed the Bernese to Border Collies, Poodles, Labs etc.

People think by breeding "designer" dogs you will have a healthier dog and are so wrong! They are combining health issues from 2 or 3 breeds and throwing them all together. Most of these "designer" breeders can't get a good breeder to sell them a dog so have poorly bred dogs to start with and now combining them.

I just shake my head when people call and ask if I breed my Bernese to my Newfoundland's Just Crazy!

The Bernese are Beautiful Dogs why would you want to change them?


If you don't feel good about the breeder don't buy just for the sake of getting a pup.

Puppies are All Cute just make sure you know what your getting and whats behind the puppy

My purpose of this page is to make families more aware and not think the only good breeders out there are the clubs members/ show breeders.

There are several breeders in Canada that have beautiful healthy dogs that just choose not to be caught up in the poorly run clubs

We import all our Bernese from Europe, they are so different from the ones you see in Canada and the USA, they look like they were meant to look, very stocky, full long coats, massive heads and Wonderful Temperaments. I have come across several bernese in Alberta and most are so afraid and timid, it is sad. Bernese are Not a timid breed so don't accept breeders excuses on why the parents are shy. If the parents have poor temperaments then so will the Pups! Make sure to go visit breeders and see the parents, and don't have a pup shipped and don't settle for a picture of the Male, hard to tell temperament from a picture


My Motto is dare to be Different and I am So glad I am nothing like these breeders I stand behind my pups, dogs and breeding program 110%, I do the health testing, I screen families and look for the best homes, I truly love my dogs. I encourage families to come out for a visit before any deposits are taken so they can meet me, ask questions and see my dogs and kennel

Here are some links I found, first one is long and very sad and what I have been fighting for years. It is based in the UK but same standards and breeders over here in Canada

Both are worth your time


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Line breeding/inbreeding~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Here are some of the health issues that have happened over the last decade from line/inbreeding

Pug Breed Commonly Affected By Pedigree Dog Inbreeding

Dogs and humans go back a long way. Thousands of years of mutual kinship has cemented our loving relationship with our canine friends. It is no accident that a dog is said to be ‘Man’s best friend.’ As a consequence of our close ties with dogs, we owe a duty of care to protect and look after these animals. These duty has been breached in the case of pedigree dog inbreeding.
Sadly, a lot of pedigree dog breeding has caused serious complications for dogs. Several breeds have been devastated by inbreeding and if current attitudes and habits persist many breeds will become infertile and die out such is the seriousness of the problem.

Rhodesian Ridgebacks

A recent BBC programme, Pedigree Dogs Exposed, highlighted the plight of many Rhodesian Ridgeback dogs. It is now known that the ‘ridge’ is a mild form of spina bifida. The ridge can cause serious complications for the breed.

About ten per cent of Rhodesian Ridgebacks suffer from dermoid sinus which are holes that can burrow the whole way into either the dog’s spinal cord or brain.

Pugs: Genetically Deformed
Pug dogs are one of the most inbred of all dog breeds. The pedigree is so inbred, genetically-speaking, it is
more endangered than the Panda Bear.

Knee disorders, stomach problems, larynx collapses, elongated soft pallets and breathing problems brought about because of its squashed face are just some of the issues that affects pugs.

Other problems pugs are also challenged with include a curvature of the spine and a propensity to suffer from eye injuries largely caused by a lack of facial structure which would normally protect the dog. The spinal problems are caused by dog breeder’s desire to have a curled tail called a ‘screw tail’.

Pedigree Dog Inbreeding: The Devastating Bulldog Changes
Modern English Bulldogs are a far cry from their bull-baiting predecessors. A popular myth that surrounds the dogs facial appearance is that the folds of skin are said to channel away the bull’s blood from the dog’s eyes. The facial structure is also said to allow the dog to breathe while it is holding on to the bull.
Both of these stories can be proved to be false when one draws a comparison to the original dog. The much longer jawline and the absence of facial skin folds shows these notions to be fabrications.

If modern bulldogs were used for bull-baiting now, they would in all probability be killed by the bull as they lack the necessary agility.
The bulldog has become so distorted that assistance is often required for mating and birth. According to the Journal of Small Animal Practice 80 per cent of these dogs have to have a Caesarian section performed due to their large heads getting stuck in the birth canal.

Most airline companies will not fly bulldog, pekingese and pug breeds simply because they are prone to respiratory disease and dying on transit. One/fifth of these dogs die due to heart attacks.

Breeds Affected By Pedigree Inbreeding
Dachshunds originally had much longer legs. Now its stomach scraps along the ground. They are beset by joint and spinal problems.
Labradors experience joint and eye disorders.
Springer spaniels suffer from an enzyme deficiency found solely in that particular breed.
Golden Retrievers develop an abnormally high level of cancer.
The West Island Terrier are affected by a large number of allergies.
Basset hounds endure arthritis which plagues the breed when they reach old age.
Boxers suffer from heart disease, and a high rate of both cancer and epilepsy.
Perhaps the most visually acute case is that of the German Shepherd show-dogs which have difficulty walking. As a consequence, this type of extreme dog breeding has been widely criticized.














Call me anytime, I will be happy to answer any of your questions

serious inquires only please

Puppy Info:

All our litters are whelped in our home, in my bedroom and moved to the kitchen at 4 weeks and are surrounded by a busy family for 8-10 weeks and well socialized


Time for placement

Most Bernese breeders place their puppies between 8-10 weeks of age. By that age puppies have been weaned by their dam and have been eating solid food for some time. Puppies that come from conscientious breeders are clean and have been exposed to a wide variety of sites, sounds and experiences both as a part of their litter and as individuals.  Puppies will be given one serie of core vaccines designed to safeguard pups from distemper and parvo virus which are life threatening diseases.  Pups have visited our vet prior to placement to ensure heart function ,general health and physical condition are good.

Fear period concerns

Puppy buyers should know all puppies experience a "fear period' during their early development which generally occurs sometime between 6-10 weeks. The age at which a breeder chooses to place a pup can depend on working around the few days when the pup is experiencing a fear period. It is not advisable to cause unnecessary upheaval or upset to a pup during the 'fear period'.

Pups are individuals

Conscientious breeders are observing pups from the day they are born. So a breeder who is paying close attention to their puppies will have a very clear picture of how each pup is developing through the first weeks of life. Early observations offer breeders clues as to a pup's overall vigor. Observing a pup's reactions to people and to different situations and experiences allows breeders to assess puppies' personality traits and their physical attributes. Berner pups are slow to mature .

I use to allow people to all come out and pick the puppies they want , But found this too hard to organize, so now I just allow the puppy buyers to come out 1 family at a time to choose the puppy they want at 8-10 weeks.


Early interactions between littermates and between pups and their dam will serve as a foundation for how dogs will relate to other dogs throughout life . By the time pups have reached 7-10 weeks they will have had an adequate amount of time to learn many dog relationship skills. Puppies placed very young, under 7 weeks of age , may have difficulty relating well with other dogs.   Unsocialized, unhandled pups will not be well accustomed to relating to life's changes or interacting with people which can make a dog more difficult to train, especially for novice dog owners. Also management challenges, such as fearfulness or lack of confidence can be seen in pups that have not been offered lots of human contact and many varied experiences early in their lives. 



There are many books and internet resources that discuss crate training in depth. Please find out how to use a crate properly. Here are just a few highlights on crates and their use.

Puppies less than four months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies less than three months have even less. Very young puppies less than nine weeks should not be crated for any extended period of time, as they need to eliminate frequently, 8-12 times or more daily.

Puppies should never be left alone for long hours in a crate. Making arrangements for someone to check in on your puppy, let her out to exercise and eliminate and feed her, should you be at work or away for longer than a few hours, will be important to her comfort and well being.

Crates are excellent tools to safely confine puppies and young dogs to prevent development of bad habits such as soiling in the house or chewing furniture or other inappropriate items but should NEVER EVER be used as a babysitter.  Berners are very social interactive dogs and need to be with their family.

Crates can be a helpful part of housebreaking a puppy. They should never be used as a substitute for scheduling an adequate number of necessary breaks out of doors for the dog to relieve themselves.

Collars and crates: Always remove your puppy or dog's collar before confining in the crate. Even flat buckle collars can get struck on the bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup for identification when you crate him, use a safety "break away" collar.

8-10 weeks

One of the most important concerns in management of puppies is controlling interaction with adult dogs.

NO PUPPY SHOULD EVER BE PERMITTED TO ROUGHHOUSE WITH ADULT, larger or more physically adept DOGS!!!!! Young dogs can and will overexert themselves in play. Slamming, racing around and wrestling can cause serious and even lasting injury to muscles and ligaments in growing pups.

All play periods or exercise should be monitored by a responsible adult to avoid injuries to tender puppies. 

Typical Bernese pups weigh from 12-24 pounds at 8-10 weeks. Puppy weight at this young age is sometimes a refection of litter size, with large litters tending to have smaller puppies and litters with fewer members having larger sized pups. Sometimes puppy weight is a reflection of the size pups a particular dam or pair is apt to produce. Relative size of a puppy or litter may or may not carry through to adulthood. Genetics will play the most significant role in the eventual size any dog will attain at maturity provided the dog receives adequate nutrition and conditioning during development. Typically puppies will gain somewhere between 2-4 pounds a week during the first few months.

Feeding schedule

After you first bring your puppy home is the time to set up regular feeding times so your pup is on a schedule. What goes in must come out so housebreaking will be a lot easier with a regularly timed feeding schedule. Young puppies should be offered food three times a day.

Feeding and exercise

Pups want to play and many can play quite hard. Manage your puppy's play schedule so activities and exercise will occur at least about 2 hours after mealtime - to avoid bloat or gastric torsion.

Bonding & routines

During the first weeks you have your pup bonding and establishing routines begin. Pups of this age are still babies and will be looking to you for direction. Young puppies have no ability to anticipate the results of their actions so owners must be constantly vigilant to ensure the pup's safety. You will need to pay very close attention to your puppy while she is small to see that she does not get into mischief or get into a situation where she could get hurt.  Take your pup outside regularly to relieve herself and begin to introduce the crate if you plan to use one.



Things to buy for your puppy


Get a crate large enough to house an adult BMD. most have dividers now so you can make the wire crate smaller for training as pups

Your new puppy will grow very quickly so investment in a crate large enough to be used throughout your dogs life is best.

A crate sized at around 36 inches or larger for added room and comfort should be adequate for most BMDS. There are wire crates and plastic, "Vari- Kennel" type crates. Collapsible wire crates are available and can easily be folded up for transport.

A 2-3 quart stainless steel food bowl

A heavy ceramic or stainless steel 3-4 quart water bowl

A six foot long training leash and a heavy duty flexi-lead

A cloth buckle or break away collar (choke collars should only be used in training sessions and should never be left on an unattended puppy or adult

Nail clippers or a nail grinder

"Quick Stop', a styptic powder, is available through pet supply houses in case you accidentally cut your puppys nail too short

A dental kit including a dog tooth brush and teeth cleaning paste

A mild dog shampoo (baby Shampoo works good)

Toys and treats that are safe for puppies. (Puppies can eat cloth items or small toys and they can get their muzzles or heads stuck in small sized ring toys. (Monitoring is a good idea Always.)

The food your puppy will be eating for the first several weeks ( An abrupt change of food can cause digestive upset or diarrhea, so plan ahead and make sure the food recommended by us is available in your area. If it isn't seek advice on what other types of food are acceptable substitutes.

We provide you with your puppys nutrition requirements, including the brand of food your puppy has been eating along with recommendations for the amount and feeding schedule. Young puppies often eat 2-3 times a day which may be continued for several weeks after placement. Always rely on feeding recommendations , who has, through observing development of their our dogs, chosen a diet that works best.

Please remember your puppy has been kept with his dam and litter mates since birth. The puppy may be a little scared and lonely for a few days until getting comfortable with a new environment, learning about what is expected and learning to trust you his new caretaker. Patience and tender hands will go a long way to building a rewarding relationship with your new puppy.

Important information:

Bernese pups and Adults do Not do well in Hot weather, they can get heat stroke very easy which can cause death. They need to be kept cool on hot days and out of the heat and sun. Make sure they have lots of water to drink.

Bernese pups and Adults will eat and chew everything if they are bored and unattended. Most puppies of any breed will chew, but the Bernese have a problem with blockage in their intestines. Blankets and soft toys are the worse thing they can have. Most breeders and books will not tell you this but from experience we have learned the hard way and lost a bernese puppy, after the 1500.00 operations so please be aware and keep the dog area free of chewable items. Rawhide bones can also cause troubles.

Bernese are a large breed but are not guard dogs nor do well left outside, they need to be in the house with family or you will have a very unhappy dog.




Origins of the Breed
The name Bernese Mountain Dog is a translation of the German "Berner Sennenhund," which means Bernese Alpine Herdsman's Dog. The breed's original name was Durrbachler, after an inn where these farm dogs were bought and sold. The modern breed was developed from dogs found in the countryside around Bern, Switzerland. The original Berner Sennenhund was an all-around farm dog, used to guard the farm, drive the cows to and from their mountain pastures, and pull carts loaded with milk cans to the dairy. Today's Berners retain some of these instincts. The breed was rescued from near extinction by Professor Albert Heim around the turn of the century, and has developed slowly since then. In 1948 there was a significant outcrossing to a Newfoundland, which resulted in improving the temperament and increased the size.

Berners are known to have first come to America in 1926, and possibly even earlier, but the breed was not recognized by the kennel clubs even after intervention by the Swiss Kennel Club. A decade later, two more were imported from Switzerland and these dogs became the first of the breed to be registered with the CKC and AKC

The Bernese is a breed which needs human companionship, and should be made a part of the family. They are a gentle breed, very affectionate and extremely faithful. They make excellent children's companions and can get along very well with other pets. They make good watch dogs, but are not much of a guard dog. A Bernese can be quite reserved around people they don't know, but once they have accepted someone as a friend, they will remember them all their lives.


There are several good books that you can buy at your local book store








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